Sue Stemp (pictured left) Sue Stemp Fall 2006 Sue Stemp Fall 2006 Sue Stemp Fall 2006

Stemping the Competition

This Londen-bred, New York based designer, Sue Stemp, creates collections that are flirty, yet feminine, while keeping a sexy, cool feeling to them that friends like Kate Moss can't get enough of (she famously wore a Stemp party dress to her 30th birthday). "Sue Stemp showed her Fall 2006 collection in a Men's Club in Midtown during New York Fashion Week- So chic! Small knit separates and one shoulder dresses sprinkled with a 70's glamazon feel. Sue's fresh, London take is so refreshing and easy,!" said Jim Wetzel, Co-Owner/Buyer, Jake. During her career she has designed for Ghost, Daryl K., Tocca and worked freelance for Alexander McQueen before creating her own label.

The adorably talented designer stopped by Jake's Rush St. locale on August 10th for a fall preview party for her biggest Chicago fans. The petite (and 6-months-pregnant) designer showed off scrumptious fall looks that we wanted to scoop right up. "What I love most about Sue Stemp’s Fall collection is how much sexy energy it has. Each piece screams, ' Get me out on that dance floor'! The fun short dresses, the one shoulder sparkling tops, the beautiful camel mohair wrap sweaters; they all have huge amounts chic appeal. Wearing something from Sue’s Fall line with give you the sexiness and attention you deserve,!" added Jim. The party may have ended up at Blue Water Grill, but not before we could ask her the essentials before she jetted back to New York the next day to get ready for New York Fashion Week this September.

FACTIO MAGAZINE: Who is the “Sue Stemp” woman?
SUE STEMP: My line represents a young, modern vitality. The woman I design for isn’t necessarily me, but my collection does reflect my own personal style and vision; feminine, eclectic, vibrant and unique. It’s flirty and free-spirited, but balanced with a sharp, luxurious modern sportswear identity.

FM: Describe your signature style.
SS: As an English born, bred and trained designer who’s been living in New York for 11 years, I feel my transatlantic references and European aesthetic coupled with my love of American sportswear and glamour gives me a slightly different angle to the signature style of my line. Key style components that my collection will always comprise of include my signature flirty party dresses, innovative modern print and textile design, luxurious fabrics and detailing, sexy slouchy sportswear pieces and traditional English tailoring infused with an undercurrent of rock’n’roll.

FM: What does global style mean to you?
SS: Now with the internet and fashion being covered more and more in the media it means that certain styles and trends do resonate around the world rapidly. In a way I think this is quite sad as it leaves little room for individual style and expression to breakthrough and can leave everyone looking a bit uniform the world over.

FM: Do you have any style icons?
SS: Debbie Harry was my first real style icon and a huge early influence. She always looked amazing and really original. I think it was watching her on TV that really inspired me to start making my own clothes to go out in.

But in general I don't have that many famous style icons, I find above all it’s being with creative, stylish and enthusiastic like-minded friends, or just seeing a cool, sexy girl in the street with a great sense of style, that inspires me the most and I think encapsulates the true spirit of my collection.

FM: Give us an inside look at your career as a designer.
SS: I’ve always loved clothes and dressing up, but I think it was my love of music, and reading style magazines like i-D and The Face that first really interested me in fashion in my early teens in the mid- ‘80’s; this was the beginning of another very exciting era in British fashion, particularly street fashion.

I had a clear idea from the age of 14 that I wanted to be a fashion designer, and at 18 I started my BA degree in Fashion Design at the University of
East London. I graduated with first class honors 4 years later and went to work for the company Ghost.

They brought me to New York for the first time, as they used to show during New York fashion week, and I immediately fell in love with the excitement of the city. I moved here in ’95 and went straight to work for Daryl K. It was the beginning of her career and a very exciting period.

In 1998, I joined Tocca and became co-head designer with Ellis Kreuger.

I left Tocca after six years to start designing one-off commissioned pieces, party dresses mostly, for a private clientele. This included designing the dress Kate Moss wore to her 30th birthday party in London and Rose Ferguson’s wedding dress for her marriage to Jake Chapman in August 2004. Also during this period of time I did a bit of freelance design research for Alexander McQueen over here in NY.

In September 2005, I launched my first full collection under my own label with Spring 2006.

FM: What tips do you give women when wearing your designs? Do you have any rules as far as fashion is concerned?
SS: I just think that women should play around with my clothes, fashion is supposed to be fun! My collection is really versatile; it mixes and matches well. There are many different ways to wear the pieces, they can be really dressed up or down, worn with vintage or another designer, or just jeans.

I have absolutely no rules as far as fashion is concerned!

FM: What is your most memorable moment to date in your career?
SS: I think when my “Covergirl” dress from my first collection, Spring ’06 was featured on the cover of WWD last August. I was in Ibiza at the time and had no idea, and then checked my voicemail it was full of messages from buyers and journalists wanting to know more! That’s when I thought, wow, I’ve really got to make this happen.

FM: What key fashion pieces do you always have in your wardrobe? What key pieces should every woman have in her wardrobe?
SS: With key pieces like a great winter coat or trench and a pair of heels any woman can go far.

FM: Which woman (past or present) has impeccable style and why (on an international level)?
SS: I actually think that style is at its best when it is not impeccable. It is much better when people worry less about looking right and instead worry
about looking the way they want. That's what makes someone like Kate ( Moss) so interesting. - when you see pictures of her she always looks fantastic, but in such a natural way.

FM: What women in which city worldwide have the best style?
SS: I have to say London. Only there do you find that true eclectic, eccentric way of dressing, that somehow just works. It’s the mix of vintage, designer clothes, and high street that seems to give English girls such a stylish, modern and original look.

FM: What is your biggest fashion vice?
SS: I shop at Top Shop when I go to London ( but that’s not really too much of a vice!)

 FM: What are your favorite shops worldwide?
SS: Jake in Chicago, Agent Provocateur ( New York, LA and London), Ron Herman / Fred Segal in LA, Barneys in New York, Gallagher’s (vintage, mostly fashion magazine and book store) in New York and Dover Street Market (Rei Kawakubo’s boutiquey department store) in London.

FM: What do you love about selling at Jake in Chicago and what do you think about the style of Chicago women?
SS: The way Jake has bought my collection is exactly how I would like it to be represented....they have all the key pieces from the Fall '06 available there which I’m thrilled about…so I think that says a lot about the style of Chicago women! I have actually never been to Chicago, so I really couldn't wait to visit in August to see how they dress.

FM: What are your favorite places to travel?
SS: I love traveling. It’s such an inspiration to me. I’m constantly trying to go to new places when I get the chance. I went to Japan for the first time last year and was completely amazed, it was really exhilarating and just so foreign! A few places near the top of my list are Argentina, Moscow and China at the moment.

FM: Do you think money and style go hand in hand or can style never be bought?  Is it something you just have?
SS: Well of course money always helps, but I do believe that style is something like love that you can’t really buy. I think it really helps to figure out what really suits you. Some of the coolest, most stylish girls I see are not dressed head–to-foot in luxury labels but have seemingly effortlessly put themselves together by mixing clothes and accessories from all over the place, in an interesting and personally stylish way.

FM: What tips would you give to people in general to be well rounded, balancing out life and a flourishing career?
SS: Just to be true to yourself, friends and family, and do what you enjoy doing if you can.

For more information on Sue Stemp, please visit www.suestemp.com.

- by Melissa Maynard